"I hate trends," says journalist and writer Andrew Jefford. "To me, a trend is an abolition of intelligence."
A strong statement, which he then lightens by taking a closer look at what is happening in the world of wine. Aware that trends release a lot of energy and creativity, he also regrets that they are often quickly blown out of proportion once "they work". He points the finger at the sometimes abusive search for freshness and earthiness in wines today. It is with regret and even some concern he observes that in some cases the desire to quench the thirst of today's trends eventually puts an end to the expression of the soil and terroir.
“To preserve the freshness of the grapes, we often advance the harvest date. Sometimes by too much. It is dangerous for the quality of the wine to believe that if 12.5% vol. is good, 11.5% is better.”
But there are times when trends can play an important role in preparing and supporting major changes ahead. Andrew Jefford does indeed hint at the possible transformation of our vineyards in the face of changing weather conditions. Convinced that the future will eventually ask us to examine the adequacy of the grape varieties in certain regions and appellations, he turns with great hope and expectation towards what is generally called "cépages modestes" (modest grape varieties). Still used to produce somewhat exclusive choice wines, they could become more popular in our vineyards in order to provide winemaking solutions and to respond to certain consumption patterns.
Photo credits : ©Thomas O’Brien